Cov khoom no tau hloov kho los ntawm Kev Hnav Hnav: Cov Poj Niam Ua Rau Fab Kis Fab Kis (MIT Xovxwm), thawj zaug luam tawm los ntawm MIT News Reader thiab rov luam tawm ntawm no nrog kev tso cai.
Cov thawj coj zam tseem tab tom nce lawv txoj kev siv zog tom qab COP26 tau thov kom lub ntiaj teb ua haujlwm ntawm kev hloov pauv huab cua.Chloé tau dhau los ua thawj hom khoom kim heev kom ua tiav qhov kev ntshaw "B Corporation xwm txheej" thiab tam sim no wields lub foob ntawm kev pom zoo, qhia txog nws txoj kev cog lus los txo. nws cov kev cuam tshuam rau tib neeg thiab lub ntiaj teb los ntawm kev siv lub zog tauj dua tshiab thiab cov khoom siv tau zoo, nrog rau ntau pua ntawm lwm qhov kev pib ua kev puas tsuaj. Lub Chaw Hnav Hnav hauv Patagonia ua rau kev lag luam-hauv tab sis tseem siv tau cov khaub ncaws qeb. ” Cov tuam txhab muaj txiaj ntsig ThredUp (tsim nyob rau hauv 2009), Poshmark (tsim nyob rau hauv 2011) thiab The RealReal (tsim nyob rau hauv 2011). Cov ntawv teev npe, tag nrho peb muaj kev loj hlob, tab sis tseem tsis tau muaj txiaj ntsig siab.
Nyob rau tib lub sijhawm, kev tshaj tawm zam, thiab WWD tshwj xeeb, tab tom taug qab kev dag ntxias los ntawm cov khoom kim heev xws li Coach ntawm qhov kev xav tsis meej uas tau pom los ua kom puas tsuaj ntau ntawm cov hnab tes tsis zoo es tsis txhob kho lossis rov ua dua lawv.Social media influencers rau pej xeem. txaj muag rau lawv, thaum podcasters hnyav cov hom kev yeej thiab tsis nco qab.Fashion neeg sau xov xwm Amy Odell, tus sau tsab ntawv xov xwm ywj pheej "Rov Qab", tsom mus rau cov tuam txhab tsis raug lees paub. Hauv nws qhov kev kwv yees rau 2022: "Bullshit 'sustainability' cov lus thov yuav txuas ntxiv mus. tiag tiag, txawm hais tias lawv yuav ntsib txoj cai nruj dua nyob rau hauv Teb Chaws Asmeskas" Nws tau sau tseg tias "xyoo no FTC yuav hloov kho nws cov lus qhia 'ntsuab'," uas yog lub hom phiaj los pab cov neeg lag luam kom tsis txhob ua ib puag ncig kev thov uas ua rau cov neeg siv khoom yuam kev.
Nrog "kev ua lag luam muaj txiaj ntsig" thiab "kev ruaj khov ntawm kev xaiv cov khoom lag luam" nce siab, tam sim no yog lub sijhawm zoo los saib seb cov kev coj ua no cuam tshuam li cas nrog cov kev coj ua yav dhau los.Yuav ua li cas cov neeg tsim khoom thiab cov neeg yuav khoom tam sim no kev sib koom ua ke tawm tsam lawv cov poj koob yawm txwv zam (xws li Maison Félix thiab Lub Tsev Tsim Nyog) thiab lawv cov neeg siv khoom thoob ntiaj teb kev paub? Peb tuaj yeem kawm dab tsi los ntawm lub xyoo pua 19th kev cog lus rau kev rov siv dua thiab rov ua dua tshiab, zoo dua kom muaj nuj nqis?
Nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua puv 19, Fabkis txoj kev zam yog qhov khoom kim tshaj plaws rau cov poj niam Asmeskas cov neeg nplua nuj. Cov poj niam uas siv ntau txhiab daus las rau Fabkis cov khaub ncaws ua kom lawv cov peev txheej los ntawm kev rov ua dua lawv - hnav lawv ntau zaus hauv lub caij nyoog lossis xyoo, piv rau dab tsi. Lawv ua nrog lawv cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub zoo tshaj plaws Tsis txawv.Lawv hnav cov ris tsho hauv nws daim ntawv qub, rov kho dua, lossis ntiav cov chaw tsim khoom qub lossis tus kws txiav txim plaub hauv zos los hloov kho nws.Cov kev coj ua no qhia txog qhov tseem ceeb ntawm cov khoom kim heev textiles thiab tob tob. Nyob rau hauv European muaj koob muaj npe kab lis kev cai.Raws li keeb kwm thiab curator Kate Strastin piav qhia nyob rau hauv lub Royal Wardrobe: Lub Hnav Keeb Kwm ntawm poj huab tais Alexandra, Alexandra, Ntxhais fuabtais ntawm Wales, muaj nws tus kws txiav khaub ncaws Lady Liz thiab tuam txhab hloov nws lub tshoob tiab ua tshoob rau yav tsaus ntuj. Thaum Lub Peb Hlis Ntuj xyoo 1863, ob peb hnub tom qab nws txoj kev sib yuav rau Edward VII.Strastin qhia peb tias rau xyoo 1874 Marlborough Ball, Elise Company zoo li tau hloov lub tsho Alexandra wore ntawm Waverley Ball hauv London xyoo 1871.Cov khaub ncaws hnav ris tsho Elise thiab tau khaws cia hnub no hauv Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection ntawm Kensington Palace.
Mary Endicott Chamberlain hnav tib lub tsho xiav xiav ntawm lub Tsev Tsim Nyog nrog lace, hlaws thiab velvet rau ob lub tsev hais plaub cais hauv London thaum Lub Peb Hlis thiab Lub Xya Hli 1893. Thawj qhov kev tshwm sim yog kev txais tos hauv chav kos duab ntawm poj huab tais Victoria ntawm Buckingham Palace, thiab qhov thib ob yog kev tshoob kos ntawm Duke thiab Duchess ntawm York (tom qab ntawd King George V thiab poj huab tais Mary). dab tshos ntawm ib tug liab satin tiab.
Nyob rau xyoo 2000s, cov poj niam sab saud hauv tebchaws Amelikas tau txais kev ua koob tsheej rau kev hnav khaub ncaws rov qab.Thaum Elizabeth Patterson ntawm Baltimore tau sib yuav Jerome Bonaparte xyoo 1803, nws hnav ib lub tsho dawb paj ntaub, uas nws tau hnav ntau zaus txij li thaum.Nancy Fowler McCormick's Fab Kis tiab. , tam sim no nyob rau hauv lub sau ntawm Chicago Historical Society, qhia tau hais tias yuav tsum tau rov qab hnav.Nws tau mus koom ntau lub koom txoos kev sib raug zoo nrog nws tus txiv, millionaire Cyrus Hall McCormick, thiab hnav ib lub tsho khuam tsim nyog rau nws tus tub lub tshoob nyob rau hauv 1904.
Ntau tus neeg tseem ceeb hnav khaub ncaws ua khoom qub txeeg qub teg, sau rau hauv lub siab nyiam, thiab tom qab ntawd nws yog nyob ntawm cov qub txeeg qub teg los xaiv seb lawv yuav hnav li cas, nrog lossis tsis hloov pauv. Ob leeg Alva thiab nws tus ntxhais Consulo tom qab ntawd tau siv lace rau ntawm lawv cov kab tshoob dresses. Ib yam li ntawd, xyoo 1883, tus kws pab nyiaj txiag Caroline Louisa Williams Fab Kis ntawm Boston, Massachusetts, tau yuav lub xiav tsaus. velvet suit nrog chinchilla fur trim thiab daim ntawv Maison Lipman rau 1,600 francs.Lub hom, khiav los ntawm Madame Camille Lipman, khiav hauv Paris xyoo 1880, thiab nws cov neeg siv khoom suav nrog Maria Pia, Poj huab tais ntawm Portugal.Qee 37 xyoo tom qab, Alice Williams Pearse , ib tug xeeb leej xeeb ntxwv ntawm Fabkis, yog duab nyob rau hauv ib tug hnav ris tsho thiab chinchilla hnab, tsis muaj lub tsho tiv no, nyob rau hauv ib qho kev tshwm sim ua kev zoo siab rau lub Cuaj Hli Ntuj Kev Hloov Kho, uas qhov kev hloov kho tau muab cov poj niam txoj cai pov npav.Cov khaub ncaws thiab cov duab tam sim no nyob hauv Historic New England.Orme Wilson Jr. thiab Richard Thornton Wilson III pub ib phau ntawm gowns mus rau Metropolitan Tsev khaws puav pheej ntawm Art los ntawm Houses of Worth, Doucet, thiab Paquin, ntxiv rau ib qho kev pom zoo rau qhov kev couture tau loj hlob los ntawm ib ceg ntawm ib tsev neeg xav. .Cov kwv tij Wilson yog cov tub ntawm William Buckhouse Astor Jr. thiab Caroline Astor tus ntxhais Carrie.
Rau cov xwm txheej zoo li Centennial Ball tau tuav thoob plaws hauv lub tebchaws xyoo 1876, cov poj niam tau xaiv cov ris tsho hnav ris tsho uas ua rau cov poj koob yawm txwv hnav los ntawm lawv cov poj koob yawm txwv hauv cov duab thiab cov duab. Cov neeg tsim qauv zam, uas feem ntau koom nrog hauv kev tsim cov khaub ncaws keeb kwm yav dhau los, tau tsim zoo los tsim cov qauv qub. Qee tus poj niam siv cov khoom los ntawm lawv tus kheej antique lace collections rau ntau lub sijhawm, zoo li Astors, uas tau sau xyoo 18th Flemish thiab Fab Kis lace, qee qhov tau muaj sia nyob.Ntawm lub tshoob ntawm nws tus ntxhais Helen rau James R. Roosevelt nyob rau hauv. Xyoo 1878, Caroline Astor tau zoo siab hnav lub tsho dub velvet nrog 200-xyoo-laus lace trim.
Lwm qhov hluav taws xob rau kev rov siv dua yog los ntawm cov khoom pov tseg los ntawm cov tswv rau lawv cov tub txib lossis cov neeg tau txais kev pabcuam.Caroline Astor pub khaub ncaws rau poj niam lub tsev kho mob, thaum Cornelia Stewart, uas tau sib yuav rau cov khw muag khoom AT Stewart, tau hais tias tau muab qee cov khaub ncaws rau poj niam hauv Raws li Diana de Marley (tus sau ntawm "History of Haute Couture") thiab Kate Strastin tau qhia, qhov kev coj ua yog ib yam khoom ntawm European Royal kev coj ua ntawm kev muab cov khaub ncaws rau cov tub txib, poj huab tais Victoria thiab Alex thiaj li ua tau Princess. Sandra.Wales.Lwm qhov ntws yog muag khaub ncaws rau cov neeg muag khoom thib ob, cov xeeb leej xeeb ntxwv ntawm cov teb chaws Europe ntev-tsim kev lag luam hauv cov khaub ncaws siv.Hauv Paris, qhov kev lag luam no muaj txij li xyoo pua 13th, thiab los ntawm lub xyoo pua 18th nws tau tsom mus rau Les Halles. .Thaum xyoo 19th, cov tswv cuab ntawm tsev neeg muaj koob muaj npe yuav muag rau qee tus neeg ua lag luam khaub ncaws.
Txij li thaum ntxov xyoo pua 18th, England kuj muaj keeb kwm ntawm kev muag khoom vaj ntxwv thiab cov khaub ncaws ntawm cov khaub ncaws qub pauv hauv East London, raws li Jennifer Le Zotte cov ntsiab lus hauv nws phau ntawv From Goodwill rau Grunge.Nws piav ntxiv tias hauv New York, muaj zog thib ob- Kev lag luam tes ntawm Sab Qab Teb Sab Hnub Tuaj tau txhawb nqa los ntawm kev tuaj txog ntawm cov neeg European tsis ntev los no ntawm 1880 thiab 1920, khiav feem ntau los ntawm cov neeg Yudais nrog kev paub txog kev peddling thiab tailoring.Qee qhov tshaj tawm hauv cov ntawv xov xwm hauv zos muab kev yuav cov khaub ncaws pov tseg.Kev tshaj tawm tej zaum yuav tsim nyog. Raws li cov hawkers tshwm sim tsis tu ncua los ntawm kev yuav khaub ncaws hauv kev siab hlub tua kev muag khoom.Anti-Semitism tau los ua si ntawm no vim tias cov neeg Yudais tau pom yav dhau los ua tus tswj hwm kev lag luam, uas tau tsim tawm ntawm qhov tsim nyog thaum lawv raug txwv los ntawm lawv txoj haujlwm thiab tig mus ncig lub laub. muag.
Cov neeg ua yeeb yam tau muaj tswv yim yuav ua li cas kom tau txais thiab tuav cov khaub ncaws kim kim.Thaum tus neeg hu nkauj Emma Abbott tuag xyoo 1891, tus ua yeeb yam Jeanne Kimball yuav lub tsho tsim nyog thiab Félix lub tsho Abbott tau hnav hauv Carmen ob peb xyoos dhau los.Kimball yuav lawv rau nws tus ntxhais Corinne, nce siab. Lub hnub qub nyob rau theem.Thaum Elena ntawm Montenegro tsis tuaj yeem siv ob peb lub tsho Félix tshiab rau ib lub sijhawm hauv kev quaj ntsuag rau tus huab tais Italian Umberto kuv raug tua los ntawm cov neeg tsis ncaj ncees, cov couturier thawj zaug muab tso rau hauv Universal Exhibition hauv Paris Ntawm cov khoom 1900.Thaum mus xyuas lub exhibition, Francesca Redding qhuas cov nplooj-dov ntsuab txhob lo lo ntxhuav thiab chiffon tiab, yuav nws, thiab sai sai muab tso rau ntawm theem.Social kws tshaj lij Mary Rita Wilson-Gollette lub wardrobe, uas tau ua tib zoo taug qab nyob rau hauv daim ntawv them nqi uas twb muaj lawm, tau tshaj tawm tias muag rau New York. Cov neeg ua yeeb yam Eves tom qab nws tuag thiab tau hnav los ntawm ntau tus neeg ua yeeb yam, raws li cov lus ceeb toom..Thaum kawg, tus ua yeeb yam Sadie Martinot tau muag nws tus kheej Tsim nyog thiab Félix cov khaub ncaws theem ntawm kev sib tw thaum lub Tsib Hlis 1894 rau $ 35,000 (ntau tshaj $ 1.1 lab niaj hnub no). Cov neeg ua yeeb yam kuj muag lawv cov khaub ncaws theem rau cov neeg muag khoom thib ob uas nws lub khw muag khoom, raws li Lub Hnub tau piav qhia lawv. Xyoo 1892, "nrog tiab, tiab, thiab Basque khaub ncaws dai peb lossis plaub zaj dab neeg sib sib zog nqus".
Cov neeg yuav khoom hauv cov khw muag khoom thib ob yog cov poj niam hauv nruab nrab uas nws cov khaub ncaws yuav kav ntev xyoo.Hannah Ditzler Alspaugh ntawm Illinois cov ntaub ntawv hauv nws phau ntawv journal thiab nws cov ntaub ntawv scrapbooks cov khaub ncaws thiab suits nws yuav rov tsim dua lossis "ripped" ntau xyoo, suav nrog ib qho nws hnav. Nyob rau hauv lub ntiaj teb Columbia Show hauv Chicago Suits, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog, tuav qhov kev tshwm sim thaum lub sij hawm lub teb chaws nyiaj txiag ntsoog ntawm 1893.Nrog rau kev npaj thiab kev saib xyuas, cov khaub ncaws yuav khaws cia thiab hnav ntau zaus.Thaum los nag, av nkos, npauj thiab pwm nce ntxiv kev txhawj xeeb, ntau- cov ris tsho hauv qab ua ib qho kev thaiv ntawm lub cev roj thiab av thiab feem ntau ntawm cov khaub ncaws.
Kev xyaum ua kom tau txais yam koj xav tau thiab tom qab ntawd rov ua dua, nthuav tawm thiab sib pauv nws tau ua rau Fabkis txoj kev zam tau nthuav dav hauv kev sau thoob ntiaj teb.Raws li Strastin taw qhia, poj huab tais Alexandra lub tsho tshaj tawm tau muag los ntawm American Art Association thiab Anderson Art Gallery hauv xyoo 1937. , thiab ib feem peb ntawm nws tau yuav los ntawm Erin Lewison thiab muag ntawm Metropolitan Tsev khaws puav pheej ntawm Art Lub Tsev Kawm Ntawv ntawm Khaub Ncaws tau tsim.
Txawm hais tias cov ntaub ntawv no muaj kev paub txog kev sib raug zoo me ntsis hauv kev xav niaj hnub no-furs, feathers ntawm cov noog tsawg, thiab txawm tias headdresses nrog taxidermy critters yog qhov xav tau-peb yuav txaus siab rau qee yam uas muaj nyob rau hauv lub sijhawm, lees txais kev coj ua dua tshiab, thiab qhov peb tam sim no hu ua upcycling.Ntxiv rau. Cov khoom kim heev ntawm Fab Kis zam lawv yuav, cov poj niam Asmeskas tau coj qee yam pragmatism mus rau kev ua lag luam.ThredUp, Poshmark thiab The RealReal tseem ceeb lub hom phiaj, txhob txwm tshaj tawm lub neej ntev ntawm cov khaub ncaws raws li kev coj noj coj ua ntawm cov neeg siv khoom xaiv thiab kom deb ntawm txhua qhov kev xav qias neeg raws li qhov ua tau. thaum xaus ntawm lub xyoo pua puv 19, nyob rau hauv lub siab tshaj plaws kev sib raug zoo voj voog, tsis muaj dab tsi los tshem tawm stigma.
Txhawm rau qiv lub sijhawm ntawm lub tuam txhab kev kawm zam Motif, cov poj niam Asmeskas uas yuav Fabkis zam hauv lub xyoo pua 19th tau qhia txog "cov qauv voj voog uas cov khaub ncaws tau tsim thiab tsim nrog kev siv tom ntej hauv siab". .
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Array.isArray(e)&&e.长度&&t?e.filter(function(e){return!e.config.bidders||!Object(g.isArray)(e.config.bidders)||v()(e.config.bidders,t)} ).filter(function(e){return Object(g.isPlainObject)(e.idObj)&&Object.keys(e.idObj.length}).reduce(function(e,t){return Object.keys(t. idObj).forEach(function(n){e[n]=t.idObj[n] }),e},{}):{}}(t,e.bidder);Object.keys(n).length&& (e.userId=n,e.userIdAsEids=Object(pb)(n))}) })}(t.adUnits||Object(sa)().adUnits,h);var n=S&&(Q() ||[]).find(function(e){return e.source===S });if(n&&"string"==typeof Object(g.deepAccess)(n,"uids.0.id") ){var r=n.uids[0].id.replace(/[\W_] /g,”");r.length>=32&&&r.length=e.length?{done:!0}:{ua tiav :!1,value:e[r++]}},e:function(e){throw e},f:i}}throw new TypeError(“Invalid 尝试迭代不可迭代实例。\n为了可迭代繞可迭代实例。必须有一个[Symbol.iterator]()方法。”)}var o ,a=!0,c=!1;return{s:function(){n=n.call(e)},n:function( ) {var e=n.next();return a=e.done ,e},e:function(e){c=!0,o=e},f:function(){try{a||null==n.return||n.return()}最后{if(c)throw o}}}}(i );try{for(ss();!(a=sn()).done;){var d=a.value;n.length>0&&-1=== n.indexOf(d.submodule.name) ||(Object(g.logInfo)(“”.concat(E,”–刷新”).concat(d.submodule.name)),Z(d,e,o,!0),$(d), h.length&&N(h),Object(g.isFn)(d.callback)&&c.push(d))}} catch(e){se(e)}finally{sf()}c.length>0&&W(c ), t&&t()}lse Object(g.logWarn)(“”.concat(E,” – gdpr 权限无效对于本地存储或 cookie, 退出模块”))})var Y=“Object(fb) ",function(e,t){return{userIdModules:e,hasValidated:t&&t.hasValidated}},"validateGdprEnforcement" );函数 Z(e,t,n,r){if(e.config.storage){var i,o=M(e.config.storage),a=!1;if(“number”==typeof e.config.storage.refreshInSeconds){var c=new Date(M(e.config.storage,”)” last"));a=c&&Date.now()-c.getTime()>1e3*e.config.storage .refreshInSeconds}!o||a||r||!function(e,t){return null! =n&&n===q(t)}(0,t)?i=e.submodule.getId(e.config,t,o):”function”==typeof e.submodule.extendId&&(i=e.submodule.extendId(e.config,t,o)),Object(g.isPlainObject)(i)&&(i. id&&(B(e,i.id),o=i.id),"function"==typeof i.callback&&(e.callback=i.callback)),o&&(e.idObj=e.submodule.decode( o,e.config))}lse if(e.config.value)e.idObj=e.config.value;else{var s=e.submodule.getId(e.config,t,void 0);Object( g.isPlainObject)(s)&&("function"==typeof s.callback&&(e.callback=s.callback),s.id&&(e.idObj= e.submodule.decode(s.id,e.config) ))}}函数$(e){for(var t=!1,n=0;nt?e:t}函数d(e,t,n){!e.preload&&e.preloadThreshhold&&function(e,t,n ,i){return t.top=e.shownThreshold&&!e.seen?(e.seen=!0,setTimeout(function(){e.trigger(“显示”,new r(“显示”,t))} ,15):(!n||i1&&(h+=e(r,Math.floor(n/o),i-1,o)),h },this.getVerticallyVisiblePixels=f,this.getViewportHeight=function( ){return t.innerHeight||e.documentElement.clientHeight||e.body.clientHeight},this.getViewportWidth=function(){return t.innerWidth|| e.documentElement.clientWidth||e.body.clientWidth}, this.isElementNotHidden=u,this.isElementInViewport=function(n){var i=n.getBoundingClientRect();return i.top>=0&&i.left>=0&&i .bottom=o.length) 返回 { 完成：真 }; 返回 { 完，值：o[i++] };}, e: 函数 e(_e) {抛出 _e;}, f: F };} pov tshiab TypeError(“对不可迭代实例的迭代尝踈滠。 ，非数组对象必须具有 [Symbol.iterator]() 方法。”); } var normalCompletion = true, didErr = cuav, err; return { s: function s() { it = o[Symbol.iter](); }, n: 函数 n() { var step = it.next();normalCompletion = step.done; 返回步骤；}, e: 函数 e(_e2) { didErr = true; 错误 = _e2;}, f: function f() { sim {yog (!normalCompletion && it.return != null) it.return();} 最后 {yog (didErr) pov err;} } };} muaj nuj nqi _unsupportedIterableToArray(o, minLen) {yog (! o) return; if (typeof o === “string”) return _arrayLikeToArray(o, minLen);var n = Object.prototype.toString.call(o).slice(8, -1);if (n == = “对象” && o.constructor) n = o.constructor.name;if (n === “Map” ||n === "Teeb") rov qab Array.from(o);if (n === "参数" || /^(?:Ui|I)nt(?:8|16|32)(?:Clamped )?Array$/.test(n)) return _arrayLikeToArray(o, minLen); } 函数 _arrayLikeToArray(arr, len) { if (len == null || len > arr.length) len = arr.length;for ( var i = 0, arr2 = new Array(len); i
Post lub sij hawm: Jan-19-2022